After watching some good size (Hawaiian 3-5, which means 4-8'+ in the wave face) surf on the North Shore this morning with marginal shape, I struck up a conversation with 'Rasta', a local from the N. shore who invited me to head out to Oahu's "Westside"...
The place we were headed was called "Third Dip", and at the risk of receiving a "Samoan in a box", the following pictures show the 'locals only' side of the island and some sweet surf. Third's (below) was not quite breaking big enough to avoid the super shallow inside rock section, so we backtracked back to "Second dip", also known as Yoke's, or "bowls"...
We lucked into a few guys out, nobody beating up this Haole boy, and no break-ins at the car, while we surfed inconsistant, but slabby peaks from a 2-4' (Hawaiian scale) S. Swell.
Super clean and fun when they came in, and incredibly beautiful, even amongst the stark landscape of "Free Hawaii"'s tent-city beach camping squalor. This is not a trip that would normally be possible for a Haole surfer, due to the violent nature of the locals in this portion of the island, but I was able to sneak in with a local and his girlfiend and avoid getting pummeled by either the surf or the locals... Here's a couple more shots of the surf at 'seconds'
All in all, an exciting 'adventure surf', with a good surf forecast of continued large S and N. swells to continue through our scheduled return of Tuesday...
The place we were headed was called "Third Dip", and at the risk of receiving a "Samoan in a box", the following pictures show the 'locals only' side of the island and some sweet surf. Third's (below) was not quite breaking big enough to avoid the super shallow inside rock section, so we backtracked back to "Second dip", also known as Yoke's, or "bowls"...
We lucked into a few guys out, nobody beating up this Haole boy, and no break-ins at the car, while we surfed inconsistant, but slabby peaks from a 2-4' (Hawaiian scale) S. Swell.
Super clean and fun when they came in, and incredibly beautiful, even amongst the stark landscape of "Free Hawaii"'s tent-city beach camping squalor. This is not a trip that would normally be possible for a Haole surfer, due to the violent nature of the locals in this portion of the island, but I was able to sneak in with a local and his girlfiend and avoid getting pummeled by either the surf or the locals... Here's a couple more shots of the surf at 'seconds'
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